ingredient 185

Alpha Hydroxy Acid/ α-Hydroxy Acid/ AHA/ Fruit Acid

果酸可以從很多植物或牛奶中獲得,然而化妝品界使用的果酸百分之九十九是合成的,低濃度的果酸(低於3%)只具有保水劑的功能,如果果酸的濃度在4%以上,pH值介於3到4之間就具有去角質的效果。果酸會刺激黏膜造成刺痛,果酸主要用來治療因長期日曬而造成的皮膚老化,也可以用來去除過多的老廢角質,使用果酸後,表皮層活的表皮細胞和真皮層的醣胺多醣會增加,所以甘醇酸和乳酸具有抗老化的功能
要達到輕微去角質,果酸濃度起碼要有 2%pH3~4,為了改善粗糙、色素沈澱、淺層色斑、淺層皺紋等問題,非使用不可時,果酸濃度要在 6~10%嚴重性肌膚,濃度必須在 20%以上,酸度可能低至 pH2 以下,通常以單次療程為主,且需醫師進行。

Fruit acids can be obtained from many plants or milk. However, 99% of the fruit acids used in the cosmetics industry are synthesized. Low-concentration fruit acids (less than 3%) only have the function of water retention agent. The concentration is above 4%, and the pH is between 3 and 4, it has an exfoliating effect. AHA can stimulate the mucous membrane and cause tingling. AHA is mainly used to treat skin aging caused by long-term sun exposure. It can also be used to remove excessive old dead skin cells. After using AHA, the epidermal cells and dermis are lively. The glycosaminoglycan will increase, so glycolic acid and lactic acid have anti-aging functions
To achieve slight exfoliation, the concentration of fruit acid should be at least 2%, pH 3~4, in order to improve roughness, pigmentation, light spots, shallow wrinkles and other problems, when it is necessary to use, the concentration of fruit acid should be 6~10 %. For severe skin, the concentration must be above 20%, and the acidity may be as low as below pH 2. It is usually a single course of treatment and requires a physician.



ref.
Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156–1162
paulaschoice.com
cosdna.com


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