ingredient 288

glycolic acid/ malic acid/ tartaric acid/ Hydroxyacetic acid

果酸, 可以從很多植物或牛奶中獲得,然而化妝品界使用的果酸百分之九十九是合成的,低濃度的果酸(低於3%)只具有保水劑的功能,如果果酸的濃度在4%以上,pH值介於3到4之間就具有去角質的效果,果酸會刺激黏膜造成刺痛,果酸主要用來治療因長期日曬而造成的皮膚老化,也可以用來去除過多的老廢角質,使用果酸後,表皮層活的表皮細胞和真皮層的醣胺多醣會增加,因此有非常多的研究報告發現,甘醇酸和乳酸具有抗老化的功能. 例如蘋果酸常見自蘋果中萃取。與其他 AHA 家族稍有不同的是,它還具有抗氧化能力甘醇酸在果酸中屬分子較小者,容易滲透進入皮膚內,是果酸當中作用最迅速的,常用於皮膚或頭髮產品中。甘醇酸略有刺激性,有些人使用後會有紅斑點的過敏反應。

Fruit acid can be obtained from many plants or milk. However, 99% of the fruit acid used in cosmetic industry is synthetic, and the low-concentration fruit acid (less than 3%) only has the function of water-retaining agent. If the concentration of fruit acid is above 4% and the pH value is between 3 and 4, it will have the effect of exfoliating. Fruit acid will stimulate mucous membrane and cause stinging. Fruit acid is mainly used to treat skin aging caused by long-term sun exposure, and can also be used to remove excessive old waste cutin. The amount of glycosaminoglycans in epidermis and dermis will increase, so many studies have found that glycolic acid and lactic acid have anti-aging function. For example, malic acid is often extracted from apples. Slightly different from other AHA families, it also has antioxidant capacity. Glycolic acid is a small molecule in fruit acid, which can easily penetrate into skin. It plays the most rapid role in fruit acid and is often used in skin or hair products. Glycolic acid is slightly irritating, and some people will have allergic reaction with erythema after using it.

Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156–1162

skin+ app的保養品成分標籤掃描功能,